Travels with Louise-Mostar
By LOUISE HUGHES

Mostar

Goran the "Grand Circle" Rep had a desk in the reception room in the event of problems of any kind. He was an energetic young man and enjoyed many flirtatious girls as he is blonde and most Croatians are dark and good looking. He was interested in Ginny and me as we are the only ones who rented a car, took off with map in hand looking everywhere. He saw my map which I highlighted back home and thought we were amazing-I am more surprised that people don't rent, otherwise you miss too many terrific places and locales who want to hear about you and America. I love it- and I don't go to countries which I consider less safe. We decided to see "Mostar" a famous town in Bosnia-Hercegovina on the road to Sarajevo this was a Turkish town until 1877 and the "Old Town" has 14 Mosques in use as the population is 40% Moslem with an oriental atmosphere. It is very lovely with the gorgeous Turkish bridge shaped like a high arch over the river. It is white slippery limestone so one must be very careful! There is an old Serbian Orthodox Church (1833) which has a fine collection of icons and paintings by Serbians, Russians and Italians masters. Nearby is the new Serbian Orthodox Church (1873)!

Ston

Many Turks sit around the cafes playing dominoes and drinking the strong coffee along this main street are so many shops with hand painted copper plates, samovars. All manner of gorgeous jewelry, rugs, scarves and much more. I bought a lot of plates-each pattern is different and fascinating. I should never go to Istanbul unless I take a lot of extra money and luggage!! These are very sweet friendly people with very little English and you can bargain- it's expected.

The plates are only six inches and for display only "Mostar" is a gem of a town- picturesque and not to be missed but it was bombed as was Dubrovnik which is a world heritage city and has been repaired. I hope Mostar is rebuilt-this was was what happens when others impose their will on different cultures. But we never learn as history tells us. "Mostar" has seventeen Mosques on the left bank of the "Neretva" River-this is the old town with Turkish homes all painted in different colors which were used as addresses instead of numbers, built in 1635. The most beautiful of these has an octagonal dome and its name is so long I won't even try to write it! The interior is fabulous, floors are covered with Turkish carpets with incredible designs, gifts from the noble families of the era. Beautiful paintings are found in the Mosque next to this one going back to 1620.

The "Stari Most," old bridge is one of the most photographed in this country built in 1566 and has only one span. Two fortified towers guard it. The entire town is so lovely I used two rolls of film there and I pray it is rebuilt now as it was bombed fiercely. You have to wonder why as it is only a small town and with so much history, irreplaceable ancient buildings and no factories or weapons but primarily a Moslem town Milosovich is the epitome of cruelty-even today they are finding burial pits with countless bodies.

We were so fortunate to see it before the horrors began-but many wars have been fought here forever-I can only hope this was the last. I love these people.

Cypress trees grow in all the towns, so tall and narrow- roses were blooming in the yards. On the way back we saw a small store and replenished our $1 wine supply. They even had post cards for Ginny. She liked Mostar but I see the sign for "Ston" after we hit the Adriatic Hwy and of course, turned right as it is also a walled town but most of the walls have been destroyed. Still it is a pretty place with only 1200 people so we parked on the square.

There are a few interesting churches and a lovely cloister but we were tired so the "Sladoled" shop beckoned with it's nice outdoor tables and very fancy ice cream sundaes. Yum. We each had a really scrumptious concoction and felt eyes staring at us. It was little boy with his parents- staring at our fancy "Slaooled" Ginny used sign language and bought him one. What a happy child! And Ginny was too.

As I noticed across the yard, was a profusion of red roses, hundreds of them but it was private yard. I said I'd give anything for some of those in my rooms. There goes Ginny knocking on the door and somehow made that lovely lady understand and she gave me an armload of gorgeous roses! She would not take any dinars but was so happy to make us happy. What a wonderful surprise and Ginny got a kick out of me and the little boy. Made our day.

So, we left this tiny town with a mountain backdrop and salt flats below their source of income. A nice drive to our "home" to relax before dinner at the hotel. Folkloric show tonight if we can stay awake. This was a glorious day and we had seen a lot. The car is just fine-my first diesel. See you next week-lots more to explore.